One of the ofttimes overlooked factors in airsoft accurateness is the air nozzle. The air nozzle allows the air from the cylinder to power the BB, which is then fed directly into the hop up chamber, rather than what is mistakenly causeless to be solely the gearboxes' doing. Additionally, it must be understood that the air nozzle makes upwardly another crucial attribute of your gearboxes overall compression. Depending on the blazon of compression problems you might be having, the air nozzle is likewise ane of the things you lot should look at.

If you've ever been at an Airsoft OP and suddenly your AEG starts shooting extremely depression and short fifty-fifty though soon prior to this it was shooting long and far with the hop up adjusted perfectly…. Then you should accept a difficult await at your compression. Chances are, you've got a broken nozzle, or a cracked piston head, cylinder head, or a blown piston o-ring – or if it's your lucky day: all of the to a higher place 😀

Lets briefly cover air nozzle compression checking because that's a necessary primer for diagnosing virtually common air nozzle issues:

1) Equally mentioned, it is important when checking compression that you also check it with the air nozzle affixed to the cylinder head and held in the forward position with the tappet plate. You can do this several ways, including placing the whole assembly in a gearbox one-half if that works for y'all (this also shows you where things should properly line upwardly and is a more than authentic method vs. clamping everything together with your hand.) Equally with all things gearbox related, information technology helps if you have three hands. Y'all should run across good resistance when trying to compress the piston inside the cylinder. Do non force it, just simply utilise good even pressure to determine if y'all have any air leaks. This is likewise your opportunity to determine where the air leaks may be occurring. If it's effectually the cylinder caput expanse, I typically bandy the piston o-ring out, and re-check. If information technology's notwithstanding no proficient, I volition swap out the cylinder head o-ring. That usually solves that area unless I take a bad cylinder, broken cylinder head, etc. Follow this upwardly with the air nozzle compression bank check. Brand sure to employ a bit of grease around the cylinder head and piston o-ring when checking. Do not use any grease on the cylinder head nozzle shaft, or the air nozzle itself. These areas work best dry out. If you exercise lube this area, chances are it is going to get blown into your hop upwardly chamber or on your BB's, thereby fouling your barrel and buggering up your accurateness.

If y'all're losing air through the air nozzle, this can be caused from whatsoever of the following:

  • If it'southward a new gun (albeit a inexpensive ane) – information technology's probably a crappy air nozzle and doesn't create a good seal.
  • If it's a well used gun (inexpensive, expensive, or otherwise) – it's probably a worn out air nozzle.
  • If it'southward cracked, chipped, deformed, or damaged.
  • If it'south missing whatsoever of the internal o-rings.

In any of the to a higher place cases, the fix is simple: Replace the air nozzle.

Regarding the o-rings found on most air nozzle designs – these are tiny and small, and aren't especially easy to supercede or find suitable replacements for. I recommend that you replace the air nozzle altogether. Generally speaking, if the o-band(s) go, then it's a good indicator that the rest is virtually to become too.

2) An air nozzle is a worthwhile upgrade, especially if you buy a good 1. There are diverse designs out there and most are gearbox specific. I typically adopt ones that have one or more internal o-rings for best performance. I have yet to see any real advantage to the various odd-shaped cut-out designs on the olfactory organ of the air nozzle (rather the contrary, in fact.) Personally, I become with a nice round hole blueprint as I feel this sits against the BB the best, it too being a round shape. I also adopt polycarbonate / plastic to metal nozzles as I feel it is less wear and tear on your cylinder head and hop-up assembly (bucking too.) Do non use a "Diameter Up" mode nozzle without having the rest of your bore upwards components as well. This includes a bore upwardly cylinder and piston head, and lastly a bore upwards cylinder head. If you don't take these other parts, yous volition accept FPS loss.

3) It is vitally of import that you buy the correct size air nozzle for your AEG. They are not ane-size-fits-all, or universal in the slightest. Dial calipers are your all-time friend. Measure the length and purchase accordingly. If you lot have as well short of an air nozzle, it volition non brand a skilful seal confronting your hop up bucking and you will lose massive compression this way (forty+ FPS or more). Massive compression loss also ways massive accuracy and range loss. As well long of an air nozzle and you will accept equally detrimental issues, most of them inside your gearbox where it tin can get expensive. It is in this realm that you can see how large of a part the lowly air nozzle plays in the accurateness department.

Oh, and lest yous've all forgotten: Practise not, I repeat, DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE to fix compression problems unless you enjoy bounden your gears upwards, and/or cleaning nasty oozing gunk that looks like an excellent analog to dingy pus out of your gearbox.

Post Views: one,690